I finished off my stay in Yamaga with a treat from my family to a lunch at the temple, there were so many delicious courses and all of them contain no animal or fish meats as it is the food they serve the priests. It was all very extravagant. Dont worry I photo documented the whole thing!
The next day, April 10, I left for Hiroshima to meet up with The Matsubara's. The Grandfather (Shishio), Grandmother (Katsuyo), Daughter (Mitsue) and Grandson (Daichi) met me on the platform of the train station. Then we headed into the central business district to go for Hiroshima's famed Okonomiyaki...which was fantastic of course...I warn you all I have gained a little weight and if it were not for all the walking I do I would probably have hit 200lbs. phew! Hiroshima is an absolutely gorgeous city, right on the water on the Inland sea it almost feels like Victoria situated with mountains and beauty...only about 15 degrees warmer this time of year. After lunch we picked up the Granddaughter (Hinano) and headed over to Miyajima Island - with the giant red Torii in the water. It was a very beautiful day and the kids played with the deer that roam around the island, although they are luckily not as greedy as the ones in Nara. The tide was out so unfortunately you could see the bottom of the torii. But there were hundreds of people on the beach digging for clams(?). For dinner we got to go to the gigantic restaurant with the revolving sushi plates, the (insert name of moving counter here) snakes its way throughout the entire restaurant and you simply grab whatever you want or ask one of the approx 10 sushi chefs to make it for you.
April 11 was a very early morning as we drove 2.5 hours to Shimonoseki to get there for a cargo ship boat launch. The whole family was in the van including the son-in-law (who is Kimiko and Takayoshi Tanaka-from Yamaga/Kumamoto's son) Takachiho, who thankfully spoke some English so communication was not completely filled with gestures and the dictionary. It was a very short ceremony but very cool to see this massive boat slowly slide into the water for the first time. Then we visited the Akama Shrine, which is just across the road from the ocean where Shishio and Katsuyo got married and I got to see a bride who was getting her wig changed! After a delicious lunch Takachiho, Hinano and I went to the Aquarium before we all went back into Hiroshima to visit the A-Bomb Museum, peace arch and A-Bomb dome.
April 12 was yet another early morning, this time we headed north to Matsue. We visited the country's most beautiful garden The Adachi Garden, which has been painstakingly manicured. But simply amazing. This garden also combines with a museum which snakes its way through the garden, as you cannot walk through the garden area you can only look at it from certain viewing areas. The museum houses the collection of an art patron who collected modern Japanese artists and is quite an impressive selection. Then we went for soba noodles near the castle.
April 14 after being sick for a day I took the train over to Kurashiki (my only day of rain) to visit the famous Ohara Museum of Art. The founder collected many modern art works including from the likes of Jasper Johns, Pollock, Miro, Kandinsky, Monet, Matisse, Rothko, the list continues.
April 15 I headed once again on the train and left beautiful home of the Matsubara's for Shikoku, where I was met at the station by my grandmother's friends Seiji and Sachiko. We went for lunch at an organic buffet, stopped off at the house before heading over to a mountain top along the water where in the sand below is a giant Japanese compass. Then we watched the sunset from a Japanese onsen on the seashore.
April 16 we drove through the inland highway to Tokushima, along the way we stopped at an old village and met a man who carves tiny figurines out of bamboo. Then we made our way to Naruto, and got on a tour boat that takes you to the spot where the Inland Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. The intersection causes whirlpools which can get very big if you catch a sailing at low or high tide. The boat also has windows on along the lower sides so you can see the whirlpools from below the surface. It felt pretty wonderful to be out on the water.
April 17, we drove to Takamatsu to take a ferry over to Naoshima, a tiny island. Its my heaven, no joke if you are a modern art lover you would be in absolute awe of the place. I sure was and still am. Pictures will never do the place justice and for most of it you cannot take photos anyway and the catalogs dont quite come near the experience of it. But I do suggest you all look the place up. I did buy one older book, but the new stuff isnt in there. Anyhow. We first visited the Art House Project, where in a small town on the brink of desertion was rehabilitated because architects and artists were asked to reconstruct, rebuild and interpret old bruildings and structures to create new spaces. So you basically do a house tour and see all the wonderfully creative things they have done. Tadao Ando is a major contributing architect to the whole island and he has built a space in the Art House Project. Next we went to the beach side and the start of the Bennesse House area. On the Naoshima property scattered along the shoreline are almost 20 pieces of commissioned artworks that remain permanent structures for you to interact with and enjoy, all exposed to the elements, some of them quite monumental they fit into the landscape and interact with the natural surroundings. Bennesse House is also a hotel, where guests escape the craziness of the city to spend a night in serenity in beautiful buildings designed by Tadao Ando and some have their own major artwork in the rooms so the public does not get to see them. Bennesse House is also a museum where you can see art work from Major Modern and contemporary artists from around the world. Yes there is a Pollock and a couple David Hockneys and a Warhol I have never seen or heard of.
Then we headed up to the Chichu Art Museum...its all underground. Ando wanted to create something that was monumental yet cohesive with the landscape. The artwork inside makes you speechless. The works or John Turnell you feel with every sense of your body. I even fell in love with Monet, (as few of you know I am not a fan of Impressionism, while I respect it in terms of an art historical perspective I personally am not a fan, especially of Monet). Well now I think he is brilliant and only thanks to Ando and the space he created to display the four Monet's they gallery has. You have to walk into a room in slippers it is completely white and you turn the corner and have to walk through one room into the Monet space. All paintings are of the Waterlilies series. You are first confronted with the massive approximately 8 x 15ft or more painting, that is so stark against the white walls. Its all lit by natural light but its underground so its not direct lighting. Once you move into the room you see two more paintings on the side walls, and finally behind you is the last painting. Its unreal. Thankfully we went on a weekday so we were the only ones in the gallery, for most of the day there was barely anyone around so you really got to spend time with the art and take in the whole scene. It was amazing. Ok I will stop gushing here. The rest of you art buffs can ask me about the rest... or I am sure I will tell you anyways. But I will not bore the poor other folks reading this. Not to mention how long this thing is getting.
April 18 Today I conquered Mt. Kompirasan. Its a series of temples on a mountain side. There are 1,382 stairs to the furthest shrine and yes I did them all! It felt awesome to accomplish it because lots of people go to the main temple but its maybe just over 1/3 of the way up....so its was nice to get to the top where there were only about a dozen people.
Ok I am done. I most likely will not be writing again as I have less than a week left and am going back to Tokyo on Monday to do some shopping!!! But when I post my photos on facebook when I am back in the country I will be sure to put a link to them on here! Thanks everyone for reading. Cant wait to see some of you when I am back on Canadian soil.
Lots of Love, as always
Alyssa
Saturday, 18 April 2009
Thursday, 9 April 2009
Kumamoto Time
So folks, I have been procrastinating writing this as I do with most projects in my life...However, its my last night in Yamaga and I do not know what my access to computers will be like from now on so here goes...
April 2 Gma's Birthday! Takayoshi and Kimikosan took me for a road trip up to Mt. Aso volcano on Kyushu. The area is of course famed for its hotsprings as one can imagine. Takayoshi took a 'scenic route' up the side of one mountain on a one lane road that pretty much did switch backs and loop-di-loops. Only to realize we were going the wrong way. But we made it finally to our lunch spot and I got to try Dengaku, in photos its the pictures of food over the charcoal with it all on sticks...so delicious. Then it was down that hill and up another before reaching the top of Mt Aso. The weather was so lovely and clear, its not all the time that you are lucky enough to see the top. We were lucky enough to drive right up to the summit. From there at first we were blocked from going to the edge so we went to the high viewing point. Then as we were leaving they opened it up and everyone rushed up to the front to see the turquiose-milky lake below.
April 3 was kimono magic day, as you all hopefully saw my pictures of my transformation I do not need to recall my day. Only that the hair and dressing took two hours. And I also visited with some of my Great Grandmother's family on this day. Oh and we got to go to the Yamaga Onsen again so I could wash all the hairspray out and relax from wearing my obi.
April 4 was a busy day, in the morning Kimikosan took me to her friends house who teaches the tea ceremony. First I watched her do a session and then she showed me the steps of making and serving the tea. I can imagine that learning takes a long time. It is a very beautiful and serene thing to watch but so specific and its all in the small details. My legs totally fell asleep after and I could not even stand up...apparently I need some practice being a good Japanese girl!!
Next we met up with Takayoshi and Chiemisan, and went for ramen and gyoza! Then we went into Yamaga to visit the old theatre and the lantern/paper museum. So impressive. They make replicas of all the important structures of Japan out of paper only its insane.
After dinner, Takayoshi, Kimiko and I went to their Beach Ball Volley...its hard to describe because its kind of in the same fashion as volleyball, but its definitely a variation and would take too long to explain, anyways everyone was impressed that for my first time I was so good and could spike the ball so well...Yes I told them I played volleyball in highschool.
April 5, There is a huge community spirit and culture alive in Yamaga. For instance today their whole neighbourhood gathered in their local junior high gym and got into teams and did races, remember in elementary school when you had sports day and you played those random games like spinning your head on a baseball bat, or ring toss, or some sort of obstacle course?? Its pretty much just like that. Its so hilarious, and they even made me play some games! There were some good Japanese games too like trying to transfer beans from one bowl to another using your chopsticks and making a rope out of traditional methods from rice stalks. Our team only came in third but it was all in good fun! Afterwards it was lunch time so we headed to the temple nearby and sat under the Cherry Blossom trees which were losing their petals so it was as if it was snowing petals...ridiculously beautiful. The women of the group had gotten up super early to cook us all lunch of these massive plates of food and there were cases of beer and numerous bottles and cartons of Sake and Shochu. So basically all the men...and me of course sat there and got hammered. By three I was done, so Kimiko and I came home for a nap only to be woken up an hour later by Takayoshi and his friends.
April 6 Takayoshi and Kimikosan took me into Kumamoto to visit the Suienji Jojuen Garden, one of the 53 stops on the Tokaido Road...Its a beautiful garden. The spring that feeds the pond is straight from Mt. Aso and also the waters in the shrine. Its supposed to give you longevity and a healthy life. There were lots of koi fish and ducks and turtles and we saw a heron snatch a fish. Our next stop was Tatsuda Shido, a nicely tucked away garden at the base of the mountain where there are a lot of haka.
April 7 We started early and picked up Elias for a trip to Kagoshima, where my grandfather was born. We stopped at an old Samurai Village, the Chiran Gardens for a lovely stroll. Then we hit up Lake Ikeda, where there are some massive eel and beautiful flowers. We got to eat lunch at a somen (cold noodles) restaurant that has a central current pool in the middle of your table, you put the noodles in to keep them cold. So much fun! Then it was a drive to Nagasaki Point, one of the ends to Kyushu Island. It was so nice to see the Pacific Ocean again!! It was so beautiful and super warm and humid. I am thinking in the mid 20s. I cannot imagine what it is like in the summer. I also cannot imagine that my Great Grandma Mori gave birth to my Grandfather almost 80 years ago in the sameish area in the middle of August!! Now that would be brutal! I think its partly why older Japanese women are so strong. Then we went to visit Iso-tenein Garden which is on the bayside and has a wonderful view of Sakurajima volcano. Which by the way, again I am Miss Daikichi, because its top blew ash all over the city and made it impossible to see anything only 2 days after we were there!
Ok thats all for now I promise, enjoy the photos!
Drinking matcha tea at a temple for lunch where everything was vegetables, its what the priests eat.
At Nagasaki Point, enjoying seeing the Pacific Ocean again, behind me is Mt. Kaimon
Gardens in Kumamoto City, one of the 53 Stops along the Tokaido Road for all of you Asian Art History class people.
Food Plate at Hanami Festival under the Cherry Blossom trees, there were probably 20 of these plates and lots of beer, sake and shochu too.
Probably in one of my top cutest kids awards Takayoshi's Nephew's Son Sora almost 1. But he was very sick and in hospital for over a week only a couple of weeks ago.
April 2 Gma's Birthday! Takayoshi and Kimikosan took me for a road trip up to Mt. Aso volcano on Kyushu. The area is of course famed for its hotsprings as one can imagine. Takayoshi took a 'scenic route' up the side of one mountain on a one lane road that pretty much did switch backs and loop-di-loops. Only to realize we were going the wrong way. But we made it finally to our lunch spot and I got to try Dengaku, in photos its the pictures of food over the charcoal with it all on sticks...so delicious. Then it was down that hill and up another before reaching the top of Mt Aso. The weather was so lovely and clear, its not all the time that you are lucky enough to see the top. We were lucky enough to drive right up to the summit. From there at first we were blocked from going to the edge so we went to the high viewing point. Then as we were leaving they opened it up and everyone rushed up to the front to see the turquiose-milky lake below.
April 3 was kimono magic day, as you all hopefully saw my pictures of my transformation I do not need to recall my day. Only that the hair and dressing took two hours. And I also visited with some of my Great Grandmother's family on this day. Oh and we got to go to the Yamaga Onsen again so I could wash all the hairspray out and relax from wearing my obi.
April 4 was a busy day, in the morning Kimikosan took me to her friends house who teaches the tea ceremony. First I watched her do a session and then she showed me the steps of making and serving the tea. I can imagine that learning takes a long time. It is a very beautiful and serene thing to watch but so specific and its all in the small details. My legs totally fell asleep after and I could not even stand up...apparently I need some practice being a good Japanese girl!!
Next we met up with Takayoshi and Chiemisan, and went for ramen and gyoza! Then we went into Yamaga to visit the old theatre and the lantern/paper museum. So impressive. They make replicas of all the important structures of Japan out of paper only its insane.
After dinner, Takayoshi, Kimiko and I went to their Beach Ball Volley...its hard to describe because its kind of in the same fashion as volleyball, but its definitely a variation and would take too long to explain, anyways everyone was impressed that for my first time I was so good and could spike the ball so well...Yes I told them I played volleyball in highschool.
April 5, There is a huge community spirit and culture alive in Yamaga. For instance today their whole neighbourhood gathered in their local junior high gym and got into teams and did races, remember in elementary school when you had sports day and you played those random games like spinning your head on a baseball bat, or ring toss, or some sort of obstacle course?? Its pretty much just like that. Its so hilarious, and they even made me play some games! There were some good Japanese games too like trying to transfer beans from one bowl to another using your chopsticks and making a rope out of traditional methods from rice stalks. Our team only came in third but it was all in good fun! Afterwards it was lunch time so we headed to the temple nearby and sat under the Cherry Blossom trees which were losing their petals so it was as if it was snowing petals...ridiculously beautiful. The women of the group had gotten up super early to cook us all lunch of these massive plates of food and there were cases of beer and numerous bottles and cartons of Sake and Shochu. So basically all the men...and me of course sat there and got hammered. By three I was done, so Kimiko and I came home for a nap only to be woken up an hour later by Takayoshi and his friends.
April 6 Takayoshi and Kimikosan took me into Kumamoto to visit the Suienji Jojuen Garden, one of the 53 stops on the Tokaido Road...Its a beautiful garden. The spring that feeds the pond is straight from Mt. Aso and also the waters in the shrine. Its supposed to give you longevity and a healthy life. There were lots of koi fish and ducks and turtles and we saw a heron snatch a fish. Our next stop was Tatsuda Shido, a nicely tucked away garden at the base of the mountain where there are a lot of haka.
April 7 We started early and picked up Elias for a trip to Kagoshima, where my grandfather was born. We stopped at an old Samurai Village, the Chiran Gardens for a lovely stroll. Then we hit up Lake Ikeda, where there are some massive eel and beautiful flowers. We got to eat lunch at a somen (cold noodles) restaurant that has a central current pool in the middle of your table, you put the noodles in to keep them cold. So much fun! Then it was a drive to Nagasaki Point, one of the ends to Kyushu Island. It was so nice to see the Pacific Ocean again!! It was so beautiful and super warm and humid. I am thinking in the mid 20s. I cannot imagine what it is like in the summer. I also cannot imagine that my Great Grandma Mori gave birth to my Grandfather almost 80 years ago in the sameish area in the middle of August!! Now that would be brutal! I think its partly why older Japanese women are so strong. Then we went to visit Iso-tenein Garden which is on the bayside and has a wonderful view of Sakurajima volcano. Which by the way, again I am Miss Daikichi, because its top blew ash all over the city and made it impossible to see anything only 2 days after we were there!
Ok thats all for now I promise, enjoy the photos!
Drinking matcha tea at a temple for lunch where everything was vegetables, its what the priests eat.
At Nagasaki Point, enjoying seeing the Pacific Ocean again, behind me is Mt. Kaimon
Gardens in Kumamoto City, one of the 53 Stops along the Tokaido Road for all of you Asian Art History class people.
Food Plate at Hanami Festival under the Cherry Blossom trees, there were probably 20 of these plates and lots of beer, sake and shochu too.
Probably in one of my top cutest kids awards Takayoshi's Nephew's Son Sora almost 1. But he was very sick and in hospital for over a week only a couple of weeks ago.
Friday, 3 April 2009
Thursday, 2 April 2009
Links to my photos on facebook
Here are the links to my photos on facebook of my trip so far for those of you that do not have it you can click on the links below and see all the beauty of Japan! If you click on one of the photos you will be able to get a larger image of the photo you chose. If you click on photo itself you will go to the next image. Good Luck
Japan 1
Japan 2
Japan 3
Enjoy!
Japan 1
Japan 2
Japan 3
Enjoy!
Wednesday, 1 April 2009
Kyushu Countryside
Well Japan just keeps getting better with a few minor hiccups of course but what would traveling be without them.
From Nara I spent the night in Kyoto before heading off early in the morning for the train down south. It was a very lovely train ride. I had to switch trains twice to get to Kumamoto. The one train ride between Hakata/Fukuoka and Kumamoto was especially nice. It is a new line so the first class seating was very nice with wood panelling and glass and they are very accomodating. There were only 4 of us for the whole ride and I think the gentlemen thought it a little strange that a backpacker be riding in first class. I also think one of them was a Yakusa, (Japanese gang) as I spotted part of his tattooing and his briefcase and wallet had scull chaining. Not to mention that he was dressed with very expensive clothing...But on the other hand why would they take the train...
When I got to Kumamoto I realized that I was missing all of my shopping that I had done in Kyoto as it was in a separate large shopping bag...I forgot it while transferring trains in Hakata. So when Takayoshi and Kimiko Tanaka (my grandmother's cousins) greeted me at the train I did not have a smile on my face. But luckily Takayoshi talked to the Lost and Found and they called the Station and Daikichi me (excellent luck) they had found it and we arranged to have it sent to the house.
Relieved the Tanaka's took me to The Kumamoto Castle where all of the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. They line both sides of the road going up to the castle so it is just like in Victoria and Vancouver except these trees are a lot older and therefore more brilliant. We went all over the grounds and you can go into the tower which is very tall and designed for defence. And the main castle was recently redone as it burned down at one point so everything is new except they used old building techniques so there are no nails in the entire structure.
Then it was time to head to their house in the country. It is so nice to be out of the city. It is so quiet and peaceful here. I got to try some interesting Japanese (kumamoto specific) delicacies such as raw and cooked horse meat, and raw clams (?) some shell anyways which is definitely not as good as oysters.
The next day, March 31, we met up with the Tanaka's daughter's husband's brother in law Elias, (sorry folks my family is always confusing I know) and we took him with us to Hitayoshi which is about a 2 hour drive. This drive takes you directly through the mountains. We had to drive through 23 tunnels in a row, the longest one was 6km long. Elias is from Ethiopia so I had someone to talk English with. We went to a doll museum for the doll festival. There were thousands of Japanese dolls of all different kinds and all of their regalia it was very overwhelming but extremely interesting. It is housed in a small old castle and you have to keep climbing stairs and room after room is just filled with so many dolls. Then we went for Udon...mmmm. oiishi desu kata.
Then we came back to the Tanaka's for dinner which was amazing of course because Kimiko is a wonderful cook. And after dinner Elias showed us a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, which involves roasting the beans, grinding and then heating its special pot. Very very interesting and a cool cultural experience I never would have expected.
April Fool's Day, I went to see Takayoshi where he inspects strawberries and he showed me the different varieties and how stringent they are when inspecting...If one has a tiny defect in the container the whole package is not sent. But it allowed me to taste the varieties, who knew there was more than one kind and that it would taste so different. So cool and sooo sweet.
Then Kimiko took me to see where they make paper fans, its just a tiny little shop but man do they punch those out. It was very interesting to see how skilled they are.
Later I went to go see Takayoshi do Yumi (Japanese archery). He is very skilled. And then I got to try it! My first shot and I hit the target!! Everyone there clapped for me. Haha but then my next couple were not so good. I think I was concentrating too hard. But I took a break and then afterwards when I did it again I got the target. I called it Beginner's Luck but everyone was impressed. For this specific archery which they only do in Kumamoto like this you are kneeling on the ground so your target is very low and there are so many steps which makes it an art form before you even shoot the arrow. I feel so lucky to have been able to try a good Japanese experience for sure.
After dinner I got to go to my first Japanese Onsen, which is a natural hotspring but unlike in Canada or in New Zealand where I have been before, the men and women are segragated because you go naked. This one is especially nice because there are some pools outdoors so you can be amongst the stars. There are different levels of hotness in the pools and there is also a sauna. I feel very relaxed!
Photos to follow. lots of love, I am missing all of you at home. But I am enjoying my time here for sure.
From Nara I spent the night in Kyoto before heading off early in the morning for the train down south. It was a very lovely train ride. I had to switch trains twice to get to Kumamoto. The one train ride between Hakata/Fukuoka and Kumamoto was especially nice. It is a new line so the first class seating was very nice with wood panelling and glass and they are very accomodating. There were only 4 of us for the whole ride and I think the gentlemen thought it a little strange that a backpacker be riding in first class. I also think one of them was a Yakusa, (Japanese gang) as I spotted part of his tattooing and his briefcase and wallet had scull chaining. Not to mention that he was dressed with very expensive clothing...But on the other hand why would they take the train...
When I got to Kumamoto I realized that I was missing all of my shopping that I had done in Kyoto as it was in a separate large shopping bag...I forgot it while transferring trains in Hakata. So when Takayoshi and Kimiko Tanaka (my grandmother's cousins) greeted me at the train I did not have a smile on my face. But luckily Takayoshi talked to the Lost and Found and they called the Station and Daikichi me (excellent luck) they had found it and we arranged to have it sent to the house.
Relieved the Tanaka's took me to The Kumamoto Castle where all of the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. They line both sides of the road going up to the castle so it is just like in Victoria and Vancouver except these trees are a lot older and therefore more brilliant. We went all over the grounds and you can go into the tower which is very tall and designed for defence. And the main castle was recently redone as it burned down at one point so everything is new except they used old building techniques so there are no nails in the entire structure.
Then it was time to head to their house in the country. It is so nice to be out of the city. It is so quiet and peaceful here. I got to try some interesting Japanese (kumamoto specific) delicacies such as raw and cooked horse meat, and raw clams (?) some shell anyways which is definitely not as good as oysters.
The next day, March 31, we met up with the Tanaka's daughter's husband's brother in law Elias, (sorry folks my family is always confusing I know) and we took him with us to Hitayoshi which is about a 2 hour drive. This drive takes you directly through the mountains. We had to drive through 23 tunnels in a row, the longest one was 6km long. Elias is from Ethiopia so I had someone to talk English with. We went to a doll museum for the doll festival. There were thousands of Japanese dolls of all different kinds and all of their regalia it was very overwhelming but extremely interesting. It is housed in a small old castle and you have to keep climbing stairs and room after room is just filled with so many dolls. Then we went for Udon...mmmm. oiishi desu kata.
Then we came back to the Tanaka's for dinner which was amazing of course because Kimiko is a wonderful cook. And after dinner Elias showed us a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, which involves roasting the beans, grinding and then heating its special pot. Very very interesting and a cool cultural experience I never would have expected.
April Fool's Day, I went to see Takayoshi where he inspects strawberries and he showed me the different varieties and how stringent they are when inspecting...If one has a tiny defect in the container the whole package is not sent. But it allowed me to taste the varieties, who knew there was more than one kind and that it would taste so different. So cool and sooo sweet.
Then Kimiko took me to see where they make paper fans, its just a tiny little shop but man do they punch those out. It was very interesting to see how skilled they are.
Later I went to go see Takayoshi do Yumi (Japanese archery). He is very skilled. And then I got to try it! My first shot and I hit the target!! Everyone there clapped for me. Haha but then my next couple were not so good. I think I was concentrating too hard. But I took a break and then afterwards when I did it again I got the target. I called it Beginner's Luck but everyone was impressed. For this specific archery which they only do in Kumamoto like this you are kneeling on the ground so your target is very low and there are so many steps which makes it an art form before you even shoot the arrow. I feel so lucky to have been able to try a good Japanese experience for sure.
After dinner I got to go to my first Japanese Onsen, which is a natural hotspring but unlike in Canada or in New Zealand where I have been before, the men and women are segragated because you go naked. This one is especially nice because there are some pools outdoors so you can be amongst the stars. There are different levels of hotness in the pools and there is also a sauna. I feel very relaxed!
Photos to follow. lots of love, I am missing all of you at home. But I am enjoying my time here for sure.
Sunday, 29 March 2009
Serenity Now in Nara
Currently sitting in Nara, Japan's first capital. It was nice to get out of Kyoto which was basically like a bigger version of Victoria which is why I was not to fond of it. Nara is also a big tourist centre but the atmosphere is a lot more calm and peaceful and smaller. There is some really old temples and shrines including some statues of Buddha's from the 8th century which are stunning. I fear though I have lost all of my four years of university when looking at the art, I know I learned all the names of the iconography but I have no idea what it is. At least I can appreciate it all??
There is the Nara Park which has a lot of deer running around and you can buy them food and feed them. Some will even bow to you before you feed them. However they are wild animals so there ended up being a lot of crying kids because the deer will bite slightly and chase you when you are hiding food from them. I had to fight off one after I had finished my lunch because it went into my purse and tried to take the plastic wrapper. So I had to fight it so it wouldnt eat the plastic.
Anyways there is also a shrine to Kasuga Taisho with 1000 stone lanterns lining the pathway up to the shrine, and then there are 1000 bronze lanterns around the shrine area. It was very peaceful as it is right along the base of the mountain and you can walk through the area and be in the protected primeval forest. Its very serene.
There is a pond in the town with turtles in it, except I feel really bad because they end up eating a lot of popcorn and waste that people throw away. There is more covered markets with all kinds of souveniers and food stalls and I may get fat really soon because the food is so good and so reasonable.
Luckily there are lots of cherry blossoms out and they are so beautiful. The weather is nice but there is a pretty cool breeze.
My back is starting to hurt from sleeping in Japanese Inn's on the floor on only cushions and from the rice filled pillows. I cannot wait to get back to the creature comforts of my own bed again. But alas I will quit my complaining.
I am looking forward to moving on to Kumamoto and being with family again. It was nice to be on my own but Mizuho tells me about the meals I have to look forward to. miss you all. lots of love.
There is the Nara Park which has a lot of deer running around and you can buy them food and feed them. Some will even bow to you before you feed them. However they are wild animals so there ended up being a lot of crying kids because the deer will bite slightly and chase you when you are hiding food from them. I had to fight off one after I had finished my lunch because it went into my purse and tried to take the plastic wrapper. So I had to fight it so it wouldnt eat the plastic.
Anyways there is also a shrine to Kasuga Taisho with 1000 stone lanterns lining the pathway up to the shrine, and then there are 1000 bronze lanterns around the shrine area. It was very peaceful as it is right along the base of the mountain and you can walk through the area and be in the protected primeval forest. Its very serene.
There is a pond in the town with turtles in it, except I feel really bad because they end up eating a lot of popcorn and waste that people throw away. There is more covered markets with all kinds of souveniers and food stalls and I may get fat really soon because the food is so good and so reasonable.
Luckily there are lots of cherry blossoms out and they are so beautiful. The weather is nice but there is a pretty cool breeze.
My back is starting to hurt from sleeping in Japanese Inn's on the floor on only cushions and from the rice filled pillows. I cannot wait to get back to the creature comforts of my own bed again. But alas I will quit my complaining.
I am looking forward to moving on to Kumamoto and being with family again. It was nice to be on my own but Mizuho tells me about the meals I have to look forward to. miss you all. lots of love.
Friday, 27 March 2009
temple temple temple shrine
So I am in my last day in Kyoto. I cannot believe it. However, I am feeling maxed out on my temple and shrine viewing. Not to mention I am sick of all the tourists!! hahaha There are so many people here its crazy. There are just like busloads of people all day long. Its like Victoria Government street infront of the Empress on Canada Day...no joke. Today I went to the area of town Gion where there are the geisha still practicing and there are so many shops and souvenier places its unbelievable. I cannot wait to get into the country again.
Tomorrow I am heading to Nara which is Japan's original capital to view yet more shrines and temples and old buildings. However this place will not have the city feel to it like Kyoto does. Then on the 30th I am traveling south to Kumamoto to visit family in the country and to visit Kagoshima where my grandfather was born.
Its currently really cold here and the cherry blossoms are slowly coming out. I hope that they will last until I can come back up this way and I will get to see them in full bloom. Well I should get my butt back outside. lots of love
Tomorrow I am heading to Nara which is Japan's original capital to view yet more shrines and temples and old buildings. However this place will not have the city feel to it like Kyoto does. Then on the 30th I am traveling south to Kumamoto to visit family in the country and to visit Kagoshima where my grandfather was born.
Its currently really cold here and the cherry blossoms are slowly coming out. I hope that they will last until I can come back up this way and I will get to see them in full bloom. Well I should get my butt back outside. lots of love
Thursday, 26 March 2009
Geisha and Temple/Shrine land
I am in Kyoto, loving being amongst the temples and all of the cultural aspects of Japan. There are so many arts and crafts here that its very overwhelming. I have been to numerous temples and shrines there are hundreds maybe even thousands of them here. I spend most days trying to find them all but they are brilliant and very spiritual, even with the hordes of tourists around. The gardens are so beautiful and calming. And no I have not seen any Geisha, maybe tomorrow but I doubt it.
I even managed to get to a really good hike in up Daimonjiyama from there you can see all of Kyoto pretty much (its the picture of the guy meditating). My Japanese Inn is in Sumiya which used to be the brothel area during the Edo Period none of that remains there today as the brothel was forced to moved to Gion where the geisha still are today. However the gate still remians. I got lost when I tried to find the inn for the first time in the night. However there were some nice Japanese people to help me look for it.
I went to the Kinkakuji (Golded Pavilion) today which is stunning in the sunset. Yet I only got a few snapshots in before my camera died...
I am still waiting for the cherry blossoms to come out into full bloom and I am leaving soon...It needs to stop raining i think.
I even managed to get to a really good hike in up Daimonjiyama from there you can see all of Kyoto pretty much (its the picture of the guy meditating). My Japanese Inn is in Sumiya which used to be the brothel area during the Edo Period none of that remains there today as the brothel was forced to moved to Gion where the geisha still are today. However the gate still remians. I got lost when I tried to find the inn for the first time in the night. However there were some nice Japanese people to help me look for it.
I went to the Kinkakuji (Golded Pavilion) today which is stunning in the sunset. Yet I only got a few snapshots in before my camera died...
I am still waiting for the cherry blossoms to come out into full bloom and I am leaving soon...It needs to stop raining i think.
Monday, 23 March 2009
Mie and Nagoya
Well I just spent the weekend with yet more of my family. It was a wonderful time with them in Mie at Chiho and Shinichiro's house. We went to the town where the biggest shrine in Japan is with thousands of other people. It was absolute madness there. The town itself is one of the oldest and has shops for you to buy all kinds of things from food to dishes to omiage (souveniers). We got to see a short Taiko (drumming) show which was pretty neat and unlike at the family reunion these guys have giant muscles and are very serious. We picked up food from different stalls along the way and then at the end sat down and ate it together before going to the shrine. the path to the shrine is long but the gardens are beautiful. There was a massive lineup to get into the shrine which would have taken forever and with two little kids at 3 and less than a year old we would not have lasted. So we turned around and walked back through the village.
When we got back to Chiho and Shinichiro's house we had do-it-yourself sushi for dinner and I was so tired. I think I was getting sick that I had to go to bed early. The next morning we all packed up and said our sayonara's and poor little Himeka was so sad to see me go because she would be lonely again. Her mom had taught her how to ask me for a hug in english so she would climb on top of me the whole weekend. I have decided that I want to learn how to import Japanese toilets...Other than the beday part I love the fact that they have heated seats and some of them make the water noise so no one hears you peeing. Also when you flush you wash your hands with the new water that is being put into the tank. How green is that!?! I also want to have their shower room but thats a whole other story.
On Sunday March 22 Mizuho (my very distant cousin) took me into Nagoya where he lives and took me to the Tokugawa Museum where they have over 10,000 items from the Tokugawa Castle and it showed all their luxuries. They also have the first copy of the Illustrated Tales of Genji but you cannot see it as it is too precious to have on display. They also had their Doll festival exhibition up which was incredible. It had the Doll collection that the wives of the Tokugawas owned and all of their accessories. insane.
Then we went to a shrine and picked out good/bad luck wishes/fortunes. We both ended up with good luck! then we walked through a shopping area that was filled with all kinds of shops where you could buy kimonos and clothing from all over the world. I got to try Takoyaki (octopus balls) and yes they were delicious.
Then we drove past Nagoya castle as it was raining before going to play Pachinko! I had no idea how to play but it turns out all you do is turn a knob and watch the silver balls fall...very strange. But it was fun and since Nagoya is the birthplace of Pachinko I had to try. it was Mizuhos third time ever going. Then we went for Teppanyaki, Mizuho's favourite, and to where he used to work, he is an expert and I have told him that he needs to come to Victoria and open one there!!
well I am off to Kyoto. Sorry this is so long but it is going to have to satisfy your needs for awhile as I do not know when I will write next. I am now stuck using internet cafe's. Miss you all and I wish you all could be here with me.
When we got back to Chiho and Shinichiro's house we had do-it-yourself sushi for dinner and I was so tired. I think I was getting sick that I had to go to bed early. The next morning we all packed up and said our sayonara's and poor little Himeka was so sad to see me go because she would be lonely again. Her mom had taught her how to ask me for a hug in english so she would climb on top of me the whole weekend. I have decided that I want to learn how to import Japanese toilets...Other than the beday part I love the fact that they have heated seats and some of them make the water noise so no one hears you peeing. Also when you flush you wash your hands with the new water that is being put into the tank. How green is that!?! I also want to have their shower room but thats a whole other story.
On Sunday March 22 Mizuho (my very distant cousin) took me into Nagoya where he lives and took me to the Tokugawa Museum where they have over 10,000 items from the Tokugawa Castle and it showed all their luxuries. They also have the first copy of the Illustrated Tales of Genji but you cannot see it as it is too precious to have on display. They also had their Doll festival exhibition up which was incredible. It had the Doll collection that the wives of the Tokugawas owned and all of their accessories. insane.
Then we went to a shrine and picked out good/bad luck wishes/fortunes. We both ended up with good luck! then we walked through a shopping area that was filled with all kinds of shops where you could buy kimonos and clothing from all over the world. I got to try Takoyaki (octopus balls) and yes they were delicious.
Then we drove past Nagoya castle as it was raining before going to play Pachinko! I had no idea how to play but it turns out all you do is turn a knob and watch the silver balls fall...very strange. But it was fun and since Nagoya is the birthplace of Pachinko I had to try. it was Mizuhos third time ever going. Then we went for Teppanyaki, Mizuho's favourite, and to where he used to work, he is an expert and I have told him that he needs to come to Victoria and open one there!!
well I am off to Kyoto. Sorry this is so long but it is going to have to satisfy your needs for awhile as I do not know when I will write next. I am now stuck using internet cafe's. Miss you all and I wish you all could be here with me.
Friday, 20 March 2009
Shinkansen
Well I made it out of Tokyo and took the bullet train all by myself to Nagoya where I met up with my Grandma's side of the family who were waiting for me at the station. Then we drove out to Mie Prefecture where Chiho and her family lives. We had all you can eat Shabushabu (where the boiling broth is in the middle of the table and you put the meat and veggies in and cook it yourself. So delicious.
Thursday, 19 March 2009
Ueno Park
Today I took an easy day in the morning spending some time on the patio of Starbucks writing in my journal. Then went out to Ueno, I think I am getting pretty comfortable with the trains and getting used to how confusing and crazy it all is. I hit up the Ueno park and went to my first shrine. Then to the National Museum. Finally getting some of that Japanese historic culture into my bones.
Then I spent the night babysitting Maxie and helping with him. And now I am off to pack for tomorrow. Night Night.
Then I spent the night babysitting Maxie and helping with him. And now I am off to pack for tomorrow. Night Night.
Tokyo Land
Hello All,
Today the weather reached 23 degrees!! It was amazing yes exactly like seeing the top of Mt. Robson. It was so warm and beautiful and all the cherry blossoms are about to burst.
Yesterday I went on my own to Shinjuku and saw Van Gogh:s Sunflowers!! You know he is a master thats for sure...And some other really talented painters from Japan. There is some beautiful architecture in this area. Then I headed over to the East Side of Shinjuku, where Lost in Translation was shot. The red light district was not that scary. And the best part were the old men who were the no smoking police. I have a great photo of them patrolling.
I managed to get my Rail Pass exchanged and booked a ticket for travel to Nagoya on friday. Lucky I did it then as the whole morning was sold out. Thank goodness I bought the green car or 1st class tickets.
Shinjuku Station is the most busy in the country and is super crazy with people and confusing but I managed to make my way and find the subway to Roppongi where I made a quick visit to the Mori Tower and complex... My Le Corbusier lives on....you never have to leave the complex. you can work, go grocery shopping, shopping, and everything in one place. It even includes an art museum. As I walked along the streets I found a pet shop with lots of doggies in the window.. They were all so tiny and looked like they should not been weaned. I got to hold one which was crying out. She was so cute and it was so sad I felt good just being able to hold her for awhile.
Then I went to Tokyo Midtown, which just opened and is another Corbusian legacy. But this one is on a more grand scale and has a better layout. The shops are interesting and even include an interior design floor or too. I found a patisserie shop and was feeling in the mood for something sweet and to treat myself for not shopping too much so I found myself a strawberry shortcake. And I have photos that document the unwrapping of the delicacy. Which tasted wonderful...But not quite as much as Gmas of course. I waited for Andrea and Dave to meet with me up there and we went to a charity buffet at Nirvana NY a famous Indian restaurant from NYC that has moved to Tokyo. The charity was called Beers for Books and the meal was out of this world. Everything was absolutely beautiful. Authentic Chicken Masala, Butter Chicken and other creations I have no idea what they are. There was even a smoked abalone on the half shell. Dont worry I have pictures which I will post soon. YUM. Their desserts were just as scrumptious. A raspberry creme, a strawberry shortcake, a chocolate brownie...K I am getting hungry again. Got to go to bed.
Today the weather reached 23 degrees!! It was amazing yes exactly like seeing the top of Mt. Robson. It was so warm and beautiful and all the cherry blossoms are about to burst.
Yesterday I went on my own to Shinjuku and saw Van Gogh:s Sunflowers!! You know he is a master thats for sure...And some other really talented painters from Japan. There is some beautiful architecture in this area. Then I headed over to the East Side of Shinjuku, where Lost in Translation was shot. The red light district was not that scary. And the best part were the old men who were the no smoking police. I have a great photo of them patrolling.
I managed to get my Rail Pass exchanged and booked a ticket for travel to Nagoya on friday. Lucky I did it then as the whole morning was sold out. Thank goodness I bought the green car or 1st class tickets.
Shinjuku Station is the most busy in the country and is super crazy with people and confusing but I managed to make my way and find the subway to Roppongi where I made a quick visit to the Mori Tower and complex... My Le Corbusier lives on....you never have to leave the complex. you can work, go grocery shopping, shopping, and everything in one place. It even includes an art museum. As I walked along the streets I found a pet shop with lots of doggies in the window.. They were all so tiny and looked like they should not been weaned. I got to hold one which was crying out. She was so cute and it was so sad I felt good just being able to hold her for awhile.
Then I went to Tokyo Midtown, which just opened and is another Corbusian legacy. But this one is on a more grand scale and has a better layout. The shops are interesting and even include an interior design floor or too. I found a patisserie shop and was feeling in the mood for something sweet and to treat myself for not shopping too much so I found myself a strawberry shortcake. And I have photos that document the unwrapping of the delicacy. Which tasted wonderful...But not quite as much as Gmas of course. I waited for Andrea and Dave to meet with me up there and we went to a charity buffet at Nirvana NY a famous Indian restaurant from NYC that has moved to Tokyo. The charity was called Beers for Books and the meal was out of this world. Everything was absolutely beautiful. Authentic Chicken Masala, Butter Chicken and other creations I have no idea what they are. There was even a smoked abalone on the half shell. Dont worry I have pictures which I will post soon. YUM. Their desserts were just as scrumptious. A raspberry creme, a strawberry shortcake, a chocolate brownie...K I am getting hungry again. Got to go to bed.
Tuesday, 17 March 2009
Imperial Gardens and Ginza
Well yet another gorgeous day in Japan. It is absolutely beautiful and so warm out. I hear Canada is due for more snow...haha suckers, sorry I have to rub it in folks.
Yesterday March 16 I meandered around Kochijijo the area where I am staying and where Dave and Andrea live and I found my way all by myself for the first time!! And I didnt manage to get lost. I found some amazing stores including an Ikea-ish store only bigger. And Gma I found an 8 storey craft store too!! You would love it There are two floors filled with fabric! There is so much stationary its unbelievable.
March 17
This morning I went to Starbucks, yes they have loads of them here too but its at least decent coffee considering most of the stuff that other restaurants give is instant stuff. And I know I try to avoid them as much as possible back home. However, the Japan Starbucks has the greatest invention ever and I am going to go there every morning just so I can bring one back for all of you!! Its amazing and will change your lives because it has totally thrown my upside down... damn those smart asians.
Then I met up with my cousin Andrea who took me on my first train ride into the city. She taught me how to use the train and which ones to use to go between downtown Tokyo and to their place so that I do not get lost...There are so many trains and they all run in different directions and only go to certain stops I am definitely lucky to have her teach me, not to mention everything is mostly in Japanese.
We went to Central Tokyo where we parted and I went to visit the Imperial Palace and its gardens. You cannot actually go to the Imperial Palace and can only really get a tiny glimpse of it from one vantage point...Its not like Buckingham or the White House. More like 24 Sussex Drive. Yes I have seen the gates to our PMs house. There is however a garden area which is the original location of the Palace during the Tokugawa era. It is very beautiful even though not many of the trees are blossoming yet. But it was a nice stroll afterall and I got to see some massive koi fish...about the size of a 10lbs salmon at least.
Then my walking took me into Ginza, which is the very posh part of town, sort of like Fifth Avenue on steriods (Amy you would be in heaven) and multiply the people by a 1000. However, I did manage to find myself a sushi place in which I ordered some a mixed Chirashi (Sashimi on rice -Tuna (maguro), scallops, fresh crab, lobster, and a healthy portion of ikura (salmon roe)) with miso soup, chawanmushi (egg custard soup) and a salad, served with tea of course for ¥819. Not bad right Gpa considering I was in Ginza? I was tempted to take a picture because it looked about as good as it tasted and knowing that my family would love have just seen it. But I felt kinda weird hauling out my massive camera to take photo.
Lunch left me pretty full so I took it nice and easy just wandering through the area, there are lots of galleries there all free and open and small, not commercial galleries though... I saw a Chagall. I also found the Saks Fifth Avenue/Holt Renfrew of Tokyo, Matsuya Ginza, which hosted 6 floors of designer clothing, and two more on top of that which had the bridal level which was all your Japanese Kimono materials and accessories and the expensive gifts you purchase and another level which held art galleries for the rich to purchase their art.
Then I made my way back to the Tokyo Station train and managed to find my way home all by myself!! I feel pretty proud given the density of the city and its definitely not on a grid system. Its so big it makes Manhattan look like Victoria. I guess there is no turning back now considering I will be on my own completely soon.
Yesterday March 16 I meandered around Kochijijo the area where I am staying and where Dave and Andrea live and I found my way all by myself for the first time!! And I didnt manage to get lost. I found some amazing stores including an Ikea-ish store only bigger. And Gma I found an 8 storey craft store too!! You would love it There are two floors filled with fabric! There is so much stationary its unbelievable.
March 17
This morning I went to Starbucks, yes they have loads of them here too but its at least decent coffee considering most of the stuff that other restaurants give is instant stuff. And I know I try to avoid them as much as possible back home. However, the Japan Starbucks has the greatest invention ever and I am going to go there every morning just so I can bring one back for all of you!! Its amazing and will change your lives because it has totally thrown my upside down... damn those smart asians.
Then I met up with my cousin Andrea who took me on my first train ride into the city. She taught me how to use the train and which ones to use to go between downtown Tokyo and to their place so that I do not get lost...There are so many trains and they all run in different directions and only go to certain stops I am definitely lucky to have her teach me, not to mention everything is mostly in Japanese.
We went to Central Tokyo where we parted and I went to visit the Imperial Palace and its gardens. You cannot actually go to the Imperial Palace and can only really get a tiny glimpse of it from one vantage point...Its not like Buckingham or the White House. More like 24 Sussex Drive. Yes I have seen the gates to our PMs house. There is however a garden area which is the original location of the Palace during the Tokugawa era. It is very beautiful even though not many of the trees are blossoming yet. But it was a nice stroll afterall and I got to see some massive koi fish...about the size of a 10lbs salmon at least.
Then my walking took me into Ginza, which is the very posh part of town, sort of like Fifth Avenue on steriods (Amy you would be in heaven) and multiply the people by a 1000. However, I did manage to find myself a sushi place in which I ordered some a mixed Chirashi (Sashimi on rice -Tuna (maguro), scallops, fresh crab, lobster, and a healthy portion of ikura (salmon roe)) with miso soup, chawanmushi (egg custard soup) and a salad, served with tea of course for ¥819. Not bad right Gpa considering I was in Ginza? I was tempted to take a picture because it looked about as good as it tasted and knowing that my family would love have just seen it. But I felt kinda weird hauling out my massive camera to take photo.
Lunch left me pretty full so I took it nice and easy just wandering through the area, there are lots of galleries there all free and open and small, not commercial galleries though... I saw a Chagall. I also found the Saks Fifth Avenue/Holt Renfrew of Tokyo, Matsuya Ginza, which hosted 6 floors of designer clothing, and two more on top of that which had the bridal level which was all your Japanese Kimono materials and accessories and the expensive gifts you purchase and another level which held art galleries for the rich to purchase their art.
Then I made my way back to the Tokyo Station train and managed to find my way home all by myself!! I feel pretty proud given the density of the city and its definitely not on a grid system. Its so big it makes Manhattan look like Victoria. I guess there is no turning back now considering I will be on my own completely soon.
Saturday, 14 March 2009
Arrival Photos and FOOD its a mori thing
The top photo is of taco salad made with purple rice, sashimi, eating small fish with the head last and arrival with beers
In the Land of the Rising Sun
I have arrived!
My flight was pretty good, just a few Oak Bay high school students and a few moments of turbulence. But all in all it was an easy time. I was able to buy a ticket for the bus, which took 2 hours to get to Dave and Andrea's area (my cousins) but I was asleep the whole time of the bus ride because it was about 1-3am in the morning for Pacific time but only 5pm in Tokyo and I had not slept much on the plane.
Dave and Andrea greeted me with hugs, photos and a beer! Dave took me to my Ryokan (Japanese Inn) to get settled and then showed me the area before going to an Okinawa-style restaurant. Amazing food of course and I have already tried things I cannot pronounce or repeat.
Thats all for now I am just about to head off to bed as I need my rest!
lots of love
Alyssa
My flight was pretty good, just a few Oak Bay high school students and a few moments of turbulence. But all in all it was an easy time. I was able to buy a ticket for the bus, which took 2 hours to get to Dave and Andrea's area (my cousins) but I was asleep the whole time of the bus ride because it was about 1-3am in the morning for Pacific time but only 5pm in Tokyo and I had not slept much on the plane.
Dave and Andrea greeted me with hugs, photos and a beer! Dave took me to my Ryokan (Japanese Inn) to get settled and then showed me the area before going to an Okinawa-style restaurant. Amazing food of course and I have already tried things I cannot pronounce or repeat.
Thats all for now I am just about to head off to bed as I need my rest!
lots of love
Alyssa
Friday, 13 March 2009
Saturday, 28 February 2009
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